Playing Or Fighting: How to Tell the Difference

Emilee Brewer

Have you ever seen two dogs going at it, and you think, “I really hope they’re just playing and not fighting”? Well, you’re not alone! For those more rambunctious dogs, it can honestly be hard to tell the difference between rough-housing and actual fighting. However, I’m here to provide you with some signs to look out for and when to step in.

The most clear sign of playtime is the play bow. A dog will keep its front end down and lift its hind end in the air. Sometimes they’ll stomp their front feet on the ground to initiate play. They also “fall down" a lot. Two of my daycare dogs, Daisy and Bear, are a perfect example of this. Daisy plays rough. She bites and barks and “attacks”, but Bear absolutely loves it. He’s constantly throwing himself on the ground so she can get him. Showing their belly is a huge sign of trust and playing. The stomach is a very vulnerable place, so displaying it shows they want more.  

Another sign of play, believe it or not, is sneezing! Another daycare dog, Larkin, is excellent at doing this. Larkin can be a little mean sometimes (she knows who she likes and who she doesn’t. Can't blame her), so I have to really watch to make sure she’s actually playing and not bullying her friends. But the biggest thing I look for when she’s playing is the sneezing. She could be snarling and nipping, but she throws a sneeze in there, and I know all is well and she’s having fun. She's similar to Daisy in how rough she plays, so it's important to look for these signs to make sure everyone is safe.

Another sign I personally look for is if the dogs separate. Dogs also get tired, and they can get cranky. I want to make sure they aren’t getting on each other’s nerves. Do they stop and take a break from playing? If one dog stops engaging, does the other leave them alone? And if not, do they accept the correction from their friend to go away for a minute? Some dogs like Oliver can go, go, go, but others like Reaves want to play and then take a break. Each dog is unique, and I want to make sure everyone is having fun at their own pace.

So, how to tell when a dog is fighting? There can be overlap between playful body language and fighting body language, like snarling and growling, so it’s really important to know what to look for.

I know my daycare dogs pretty well. It’s all about knowing their body language and personal stress signals. Daisy has a very specific bark she does when she’s getting overwhelmed. As soon as she does that, I distract her friend and let her play on her own so she can calm down. You also need to look for tense body language. This includes a tucked tail, stiff movements, hackles raised, and snarling. Once I see any of these, I separate the two dogs and let them chill for a few moments before they can play again. Clarke is great about giving warning signals when she gets tired of another dog. She gives a low grumble and a slight snarl. If the other dog continues, she’ll give a quick snip to correct them and then immediately come to me so I can make the “aggressor” go away. I’ve got several dogs that do great at giving corrections, which signals to me that I need to pay extra close attention to make sure nothing happens and get some space between the two.

Most of the time, when a dog gets grumpy during play time, it’s a quick correction or maybe a slight scuffle. Those typical resolve on their own and don’t result in any injury except maybe a bruised ego. A scuffle is usually just noisy with a couple of nips. It’s like when your sibling flicks your arm because you annoyed them. Everyone’s grumpy, but your parents don’t have to ground you. Usually, when scuffles happen, I can just raise my voice a little bit, and the dogs will stop. No harm, no foul. But there is the rare occasion that it develops into a full-blown fight, and that is scary. Fights can be quick, but the chances of injury go way up. It’s important to remain calm and act quickly. As soon as a fight breaks out, I radio for help and try to get the dogs to separate. Never place yourself between the fight or get near their heads or neck. I’ve learned that the hard way and still have the scars to prove it. A good way to separate fighting dogs is to “wheelbarrow” them. You grab their hind legs and toss their little butt to the side. It distracts them from the fight and enables you to leash them and get them away from each other.

Preventing a fight will always be better than breaking up one. I keep a close eye on body language and vocal signals to make sure everyone is having fun. It’s not fair for one dog to be enjoying themselves a lot more than the other; I want the fun to be equal!

Bringing Home A Kitten

Emilee Brewer

Bringing home a kitten is exciting! Watching them grow and settle in is rewarding. But are you ready for your newest family member? From getting them comfortable to introducing them to other pets, to kitten-proofing, there’s a lot to prepare!

A new environment can be scary. Unfamiliar sights, sounds, and smells are overwhelming to a kitten. Help your companion feel comfortable by starting slow. Bring them to a small, quiet space. If in a carrier, open the door and let them come out when ready. This gives them time to adjust. Place food, water, and a litter box nearby and let them explore at their own pace. If hesitant after 30 minutes, gently remove them and show the essentials. Limiting their space at first reduces anxiety.

Cats follow the 3-3-3 rule: three days to adjust, three weeks to learn the routine, and three months to feel at home. In the first three days, your cat may exhibit anxiety, refuse to eat or use the litter box, and test boundaries. Be patient. After three weeks, your cat learns the routine and gets familiar with meal times. At this point, let them roam freely, but keep familiar scents and toys nearby if you leave. You'll start to see their personality emerge. After about three months, your cat feels at home. It takes patience, but it’s worth the love you gain!

What if you have other pets in the home? How do you safely introduce them? While some kittens may show fear or aggression to their new family members, they’re usually much more inquisitive and playful and just want to know what this new creature before them is! The other animal may actually be more of a threat than the little kitten. It was their home to begin with. Keep the other animal restrained with a leash or someone holding them. Let them sniff each other and get a feel of this new presence. Stay alert, though, and watch for any signs of aggression on either end. Do slow introductions and keep them short at first. Slowly increase the amount of time they’re around each other until they are comfortable. It’s going to take time, but eventually they will learn the other isn’t going away any time soon.

Whether you’re gaining a new animal companion or a human baby, you have to make sure your home is safe! According to the SPCA, here are a few things you need to do before bringing home your kitten:

• Keep the home clean

• Make sure the areas you don’t want them in are inaccessible

• Remove anything that could be harmful

Keeping the home clean is crucial. Cats are curious creatures. They will play with loose cables, garbage, blinds, anything they can get their hands on. You don’t want to come home to an electrocuted cat or one that swallowed a candy wrapper and choked. Keeping your house clean will help prevent any accidents from happening. However, keeping a neat and tidy house 24/7 isn’t the most realistic advice, so maybe an easier solution is restricting access to certain areas. Keep a lid on your garbage can or put a baby gate across the stairs so they don’t fall. Any room you know they may get into trouble, find a way to limit their access to it or make sure they are always supervised in that room.

The hardest kitten-proofing measure is removing anything that can be harmful. For example, my bearded dragon eats anything that is green. I was working on a project and accidentally left my green yarn out. He got a hold of it and had a good six inches of yarn down his throat that I had to pull out. Thankfully, he’s fine, but I have to be very careful about what gets left on the floor. The same goes for a cat. They may find a rubber band on the floor or decide to have a salad and eat one of your plants. Try to stay vigilant and keep the floors clean and toxic plants where they can’t get to them. Easier said than done, I know. Accidents happen no matter how many precautions you take, but you can lessen their chances!

It’s exciting to gain a kitten (or cat. Grown-up cats need love too)! Keep some of these tips in mind, and their transitional period should be smooth sailing. Did you know we have kittens currently available at the kennel? They’re super cute and cuddly, so stop in sometime and check them out!

Fact or Crap: Common Dog Beliefs

Emilee Brewer

Dogs are colorblind! Dogs have cleaner mouths than humans! Some breeds are hypoallergenic! Dogs age seven years for every human year! Who hasn’t heard these common beliefs? But are they factual? Let’s take a look at some prevailing misconceptions! 

Dogs are colorblind. Kind of. They don’t see in black and white, as most people think, but rather, they see in shades of yellow and blue. Dogs are dichromatic, whereas humans are trichromatic. The di- or tri- prefix refers to the number of cones in the eye. Humans have three cones and can see a wide variety of colors, whereas dogs have only two cones, which limits their color perception. “Dogs are very good at distinguishing between variations of blues and yellows (and whites and grays), but dogs can’t see red and green all that well”. This means that shades of red and green look more like brown or grey to a dog.

Dogs have cleaner mouths than humans. At a very basic level, yes. Dogs have 600 different germ species in their mouths compared to a human’s 615+ germ species. So by sheer numbers, they have fewer germs. However, there are bacteria in a dog’s mouth that humans don’t have at all, just as we have germs that they don’t have. It’s a very weird comparison to make. There is a little bit of overlap in our germ species, though, like Porphyromonas, which is the bacterium that causes periodontal disease. So, can you get sick from a dog licking you? It’s not likely, but it is possible. The highest risk comes from a dog bite and the saliva entering your bloodstream. Seek immediate medical attention if a dog bites you, especially a stray dog! You do not want to mess with rabies. There’s also a slim chance of transmission of a bacterial or viral illness if dog saliva gets into your mouth, so don’t French kiss your dog, and you’ll be fine. It’s also important to keep their mouths clean to lower risks further. Brushing their teeth is a great way to keep them clean and prevent any dental or gum disease! 

Certain breeds are hypoallergenic. No. What’s hypoallergenic to one person may not be at all to another. So a doodle doesn’t set you off, but it causes sneezing fits in your cousin. According to Nationwide Children’s Hospital, “dog dander is what causes symptoms of allergy. It’s not the length, style, type, or shedding of fur. Dander comes from saliva, skin cells, and urine. Unless your dog has no mouth, no skin, or doesn’t pee, it will release dander into the air”. A misunderstanding of how allergies work is what caused this myth. There are different types of allergens, and it’s going to vary by dog. Some people may react to one breed, but not another, so now you assume this breed is safe. Allergy testing can help you learn if you have a dog allergy, but it won’t help determine which breed is going to trigger the allergies. Your best bet? Spend time with different breeds and see which one you can tolerate the best! There are also some steps you can take to help ease symptoms, like giving the dog regular baths, frequent vacuuming, and using HEPA filters in your home. A dog with a shorter coat may help, as they don’t shed as badly, but remember, they’re still going to shed, and it may still trigger your allergies. 

Dogs age seven years to a human’s one year! This is more of a rough estimate. You also need to consider their breed and size. Ever notice how little dogs like Chihuahua’s make it to 17 or even 20 years, whereas a French Mastiff is lucky to make it eight years? Small dogs tend to age at a much slower rate than their large counterparts, and even then, that’s still kind of a toss-up. A Yorkie may live longer than a Great Dane, but a Great Dane may live longer than a bulldog. From VCA Animal Hospitals, “dogs develop more quickly the first two years of life, after which development levels out a bit. During the first two years, one dog year equals about 10.5 human years. So, the dog: human aging ratios is 10.5:1 rather than 7:1. When a dog hits the three-year mark, he ages 4 years to every 1 human year, bringing the ratio to 4:1. Using this formula, a 10-year-old dog is the equivalent of a 53-year-old human. Using the simple 7:1 ratio, this same 10-year old dog would be the equivalent of a 70-year old human”. Simple math doesn’t work, but the 7:1 ratio at least gives you a vague idea of how your dog is aging. Honestly, just enjoy every moment and take note as your dog starts to slow down. 

There are a lot of misconceptions when it comes to dogs. A lot of regurgitated facts that don’t actually hold any water. It’s kind of like growing up being told goldfish only have three-second memories (they don’t. They actually have excellent memories spanning years!). A good rule of thumb is to always do your own research and not take things at face value! 

Understanding Cat Body Language

Emilee Brewer

Learning body language is an important life skill. Not just human body language, but animal body language too. Dogs, cats, reptiles, rabbits, all animals have their own unique way of communicating their feelings. Let’s shift gears back to our furry feline friends for this week’s post! 

Cats use their eyes, ears, whiskers, and tail to communicate as well as their voice. Understanding these different signs will enable you to better care for your kitty. You also want to consider outside factors like their environment, sights, sounds, and smells to further understand them. 

According to PetMD, a happy cat is a loose cat. Their posture will be relaxed, and their tail and limbs will be stretched out away from their body while they’re lying down. They may even show you their belly, but watch out! This doesn’t necessarily mean they want belly rubs. Showing off their most vulnerable spot means they trust you and they feel safe. Not all kitties like their bellies being touched, though, so be careful or you might catch a paw to the face. A happy cat may also purr to show their contentment. When it comes to their body language, check their eyes, ears, and tail. A comfy kitty will have round eyes or partially closed eyes with their pupils like slits. They’ll also blink slowly to show trust! Happy ears are upright and face forward, and a happy tail is typically pointed up with a curl at the tip. 

Now, a stressed cat is going to have the exact opposite body language of a happy cat. Their body is going to be super stiff and tense. They also shrink and keep low to the ground. Their ears will be flat, and they’ll have wide eyes with dilated pupils. They can also display displacement behaviors such as licking their lips or increased swallowing. Some cats may even urinate or defecate outside of the litter box when stressed. Their ears may be rotated to the sides or angled backward. Finally, their tail is likely close to their body, but they may also thump it if they’re annoyed. It’s a night-and-day difference between a happy cat and a stressed cat. 

My favorite cat mood is when they’re feeling playful. Their pupils get really big, and I call this dumbass mode. This is when the cat is feeling silly and ready to play! They flick their tail from side to side, and they wiggle their butts, ready to pounce on the nearest toy. Their ears are upright and forward-facing. Cats are still predators at the end of the day, so when they play, they act like they’re hunting. They’ll crouch down, wiggle, and start chasing toys. Be careful with the tail flicking, though, because, as I mentioned, it could also show annoyance. Read the situation, and if they’re displaying other “hunting” behaviors, you should be in the clear to continue playing! 

An aggressive cat is going to make themselves look large and in charge. Any person’s or animal’s last resort is violence, but if a cat feels threatened enough, they will fight back. To make themselves larger, they’ll arch their back, and their fur will stand up. An aggressive cat will maintain eye contact, and their eyes may narrow. Their ears will be turned back or lie flat against their head, and their whiskers could be flat against their cheeks or pushed forward. Again, they may also flick or thrash their tail. Before lashing out, the cat will hiss or even spit. As a last resort, they’ll lunge or swat at the perceived threat. 

Finally, and arguably the most important, a cat’s body language can clue you in if the animal is sick or in pain. Unfortunately, animals can’t tell us when they’re hurting, so it’s super important to know what to watch for, especially because cats are great at masking illnesses or injuries. Their body may appear tense with a hunched posture, and their tail tucked underneath them. Their ears will be held low, or they could be rotated to the sides. A cat’s eyes can appear dazed or glossy, and they may squint or keep them shut. Excessive purring or meowing and yowling are also signs of distress. Watch for changes in their behavior, like decreased energy, a change in appetite, or aggression, as these can also demonstrate discomfort. 

As you may have noticed, some of these behaviors overlap, like the tail flicking and the dilated eyes. Always consider your environment and possible stressors to determine what mood your cat is in. Understanding these behaviors will help you be a better cat parent! 

Grooming Basics

Emilee Brewer

Just like brushing your hair and teeth or taking a shower, dogs have important grooming needs. Each breed is going to be different, but there are some basics you should be aware of! 

As many owners know, shedding is a very real problem. In the winter, dogs will grow their coats out to insulate better in the cold. Once summer hits, they shed this coat, and it gets all over your nice couch. Shedding is perfectly normal, but regular brushing is an excellent way to minimize shedding and keep your furniture its original color! Brushing will also help to keep their coat in good health. It helps to remove dirt, spread natural oils throughout their coat, keep their skin clean, and prevent any tangles. This is also a great time to look your pet over for any possible fleas or ticks. 

How you brush and how often you brush will largely depend on your dog’s hair type. If they have a short and dense coat like a retriever, brushing once a week is a good amount. You’ll want to use a slicker brush to help remove any tangles and then go back through with a bristle brush to catch all the dead hair. Make sure you also get the tail! For a short, smooth coat like that of a chihuahua, brushing once a week will also suffice. A rubber brush is recommended to loosen dead skin and dirt; then, follow with the bristle brush for loose hair. Finally, if your pooch has a long coat, like a samoyed, ideally you want to give them attention daily. These coats can easily get matted and hold dirt so multiple brushings are a must! These types of dogs need routine grooms too. Breeds like Komondors are even more high maintenance, so make sure you know what you’re getting into before getting a long-haired dog. 

Another important grooming need: dental care. As anyone who’s had dental problems knows, dental care is not cheap. Prevention is a hell of a lot cheaper than repair. One way to keep the bad breath away is with dental chews. PetMD recommends looking for dental treats that have the Veterinary Oral Health Council’s Seal of Acceptance to make sure your dog is getting the best care. Dental chews help to reduce plaque and tartar buildup and freshen breath. You can also literally brush their teeth. There are toothpastes flavored like chicken and beef so your dog enjoys their daily brushing. For small dogs, there are finger toothbrushes you can buy, and for large dogs, you can get them a regular ole toothbrush. It’s recommended to brush their teeth about 2-3 times a week and you brush them just like you brush your own teeth. No need to worry about rinsing their mouth out though! You can also take your dog to the vet for routine dental checkups and cleanings. Humans may brush their teeth daily, but we still need a dentist to check everything over and get those hard-to-reach spots. The same is true for dogs. Your dog will go under general anesthesia so the vet can properly get all the plaque and check for gingivitis.

Nail trims are also essential. Nail trims can easily be done at home, but there are plenty of groomers and vets that will trim your pet’s nails for you. When you first get your dog, start playing with their paws. Just massage them or inspect them; something to get them used to their paws being handled. This will lessen any future anxiety they may have around getting their nails trimmed. You can trim their nails with a traditional trimmer, or you can grind their nails. Both are great options, just know which one your dog prefers. Trim little bits off at a time because trimming too much risks hitting the quick and making your dog bleed. Be very careful, and if you’re not comfortable doing it at first, ask your vet to show you how to do it! 

Routine nail trims are important to prevent their nails from getting too long and causing discomfort. Long nails can reduce traction. They can also cause deformed feet and injure the tendons. 

Finally, it’s important to check your dog’s ears consistently. Ear checks are important for dogs who produce a lot of wax or have hairy ears. Breeds with long ears are prone to infections, so checking regularly is great prevention. Obviously, you don’t want to clean them so often that their ears get irritated, but a quick cleanse if they look dirty will feel great! ASPCA recommends using a cotton ball or a small piece of gauze dampened with ear cleaner or hydrogen peroxide to clean the inside. Clean gently and make sure to lift any dirt or debris away from the ear. 

With these simple tips, you can keep your dog nice and healthy. Their coat will shine, their teeth will be pearly, and you’ll prevent infection and future problems. While some grooming can be done at home, it’s best to take your dog to a professional (like Francis Kennels wink wink). 

Remarkable Reptiles

Emilee Brewer

Reptiles are fascinating creatures that come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They all have their own unique needs, and they’re just as full of personality as a cat or dog! I have a crested gecko named Poseidon and a bearded dragon named Stanley Yelnats, and both of them have their own unique personality. But despite both being reptiles, they have extremely different needs in terms of enclosure, humidity, and heat. They have different tolerances for handling, too. Stanley is a desert animal while Poseidon is a tropical animal, so their needs are very unique to their species! What goes into reptile care, and how do you choose the right one for you? This week, we’re shifting gears and taking a look at our scaly buddies! 

A snake is going to need a different enclosure than a bearded dragon, and a bearded dragon is going to need a different humidity level than a chameleon, and so on and so forth. Reptiles are a little more involved than cats or dogs. Some reptiles are much more difficult than others (looking at you, chameleons), but there are a few good starter reptiles! 

Starting off, one of the most common reptiles is a leopard gecko. Growing to about 7-11 inches long, these feisty little lizards are fairly easy to care for. They’re awesome beginner reptiles because they tolerate handling a lot better than others and they have a calm disposition. Leopard geckos are fascinating and have the sweetest personalities. With proper care, they can live anywhere from 10-20 years! For juvenile leos, the recommended tank size is 10 gallons while adults require a 20+ gallon tank. They also need special lighting. Like all reptiles, leopard geckos are exothermic which means they rely on an external heat source to regulate their body temperature. They’ll need a heat source and a UV bulb to maintain the correct temperature in the tank and help them metabolize vitamin D. Leopard geckos are native to semi-arid deserts in the Middle East and parts of northern India. This means they don’t require a lot of humidity; ideally, keep the humidity below 50%. Leos are insectivores which means they feed on bugs! They eat crickets, mealworms, superworms, hornworms, and wax worms. 

Leopard geckos store extra nutrients and fat in their tails as an emergency energy source. They can actually detach their tails if they get caught by a predator. It continues to wiggle for a brief period after falling off to distract the predator. Their tail does grow back, but it will never quite look the same as the original. Fun fact, leopard geckos scream. It sounds like a tire deflating, and I love it so much. They come out of the egg screaming, and it is the funniest thing to witness. 

Next up is the crested gecko also called the eyelash crested gecko because it looks like they have little eyelashes. These are my favorite geckos because there is not a single thought in their little head. Lights are on, but no one’s home. I cannot stress enough how much I love these guys and how dumb they are. I’ll be watching Poseidon in his tank and he’ll just jump straight at the door and fall. Crested geckos are arboreal and native to New Caledonia. They were actually believed to be extinct until they were rediscovered in 1994! Now they’re a thriving species and one of the most popular beginner reptiles. Cresteds live about 15-20 years with proper care and grow to about 5-8 inches long including their tail. While they don’t tolerate handling as well as their leopard counterparts, they are still fascinating to watch. You can slowly acclimate them to handling but limit handling to about 10-15 minutes a day. Too much handling and they can become stressed. 

Cresteds don’t need as much heat as many other reptiles. They can typically kept in a room-temperature tank with a heating mat to provide a little extra warmth if they get chilly. The best setup is to have a gradient. Poseidon is in a vertical 20-gallon tank, and I’ve got two small heating pads on one side of his tank. He can go to that side to warm up and then go to the opposite side or climb up to the top to cool down. On the warm side, it’s around 75 degrees and the cool side is about 68 degrees. Cresteds also need a much higher humidity level than leopards. You can easily use a spray bottle to mist the cage occasionally throughout the day. Humidity should not drop below 50% and should ideally be kept around 80%. They also need a UVB bulb to help with vitamin absorption. 

When it comes to feeding, the easiest method is crested gecko diet. Crested gecko diet has all the essential fats, proteins, minerals, and vitamins already mixed in. It’s a combination of fruits and bugs made into a fine powder. Add a little bit of water to make a smoothie and voila! A lovely little slushy for your gecko to eat to its heart’s content. 

Just like leopard geckos, cresteds can drop their tails, but unlike leopard geckos, cresteds don’t regrow them. A crested is extremely hesitant to drop its tail and will usually only do it if its tail gets caught in a door or gets pinched. Unless you’re mishandling them, they won’t drop their tail from being held. Fun fact, cresteds have no eyelids! They have to lick their eyes to maintain moisture. They also chirp!

Another fantastic starter reptile is the bearded dragon. Stanley is so full of sass, but he absolutely loves me. All the techs at my vet are amazed by how bonded he is to me. There’s lots of debate in the reptile community if reptiles have emotions, but if you ask me, they definitely have favorite humans. When Stanley was a baby, he would curl into my elbow and fall asleep. If my dad is near him though? He just stares or walks away. So I think reptiles have emotions. Anyway! Dragons live about 10-15 years and grow to about 20 inches long with their tail. Dragon enclosures are a little more involved than cresteds or leopards. A dragon needs lots of space. While they’re little, they can be in a 20-gallon tank, but it truthfully won’t last them long. Bearded dragons grow fast in the first few months. They constantly shed as they grow so rapidly. It’s insane how quickly they grow. Stanley is three years old, about 20 inches long, and he’s in a 40-gallon tank which is the smallest recommended tank size. However, he’s allowed to free roam while I’m home, so he gets the whole apartment to explore. The tank is mostly there for sleeping and warming up. 

For lighting, they need a UVB, UVA, and basking bulb. They need a gradient similar to a crested. On the hot end of Stanley’s tank, it’s about 90-95 degrees and the cool end is about 80 degrees. Beardies hail from Australia so they’re used to hot hot temperatures. Dragons are omnivores so they eat bugs and plants. When they’re juveniles, they eat a 70% insect diet and a 30% plant diet. As they mature, those numbers flip flop. Adults get more veg and fewer bugs. Stanley gets a nice salad of kale, collard greens, and mustard greens. As a treat, he’ll get some strawberries or bell peppers. On his bug days, he’ll get superworms or his favorite, dubia roaches. Always research what veggies and fruits are safe for your dragon before feeding them! Certain veggies can hurt them and prevent mineral and vitamin absorption. Dragons are loved as a beginner pet as they are super chill and tolerate handling really well. Fun fact, as a way to show submission, bearded dragons will wave! If they’re showing dominance, they’ll bob their head and their beard will turn black! 

Reptiles are super cool animals but they do require lots of research. Also, I’m not going to lie to you, reptiles are kind of pricey. You can usually get the animal itself at a decent price, but the enclosures and lighting get quite expensive! Both of my reptiles are missing legs, so they were discounted, but between the two of them, I have about $400-$500 in their enclosures. It’s not a cheap hobby, but it is extremely rewarding. I got Stanley and Poseidon as babies and it’s been so incredibly fulfilling seeing them grow and thrive. Poseidon jumps to me as soon as I open his tank and Stanley starts begging to be let out as soon as I get home from work. They’re incredible animals and I’ve loved seeing their personalities shine! 

Just like picking a dog or a cat, picking a reptile isn’t easy. Make sure you do plenty of research and most importantly, make sure there’s an exotic vet near you! Not all vets see reptiles, so you have to be sure there’s an exotic vet that can get your animal in. Understand that there are easier reptiles than others. The three I’ve listed here are beginner-friendly, but still have a lot of upkeep. Other reptiles though, like chameleons, are absolutely not beginner-friendly. Do not get a chameleon as your first reptile, I cannot stress that enough. They need super specific lighting, and humidity, they don’t like to be handled, everything stresses them out, and they die so easily. I love chameleons, I really do. I hope to own one one day, but they are expert-level reptiles because they are so hard to maintain. Please do lots of research on any animal, but especially reptiles. 

Reptiles are incredible animals and they are deserving of our love and respect just like their furry counterparts. I know they’re not everyone’s cup of tea, but give them a chance! I promise they’re not as scary as they seem! If you ever catch me at the kennel, I’m always willing to talk about my boys and show off pictures. I also have audio of Poseidon chirping! 

The Dangers of Summer

Emilee Brewer

Alright, folks, Summer is in full swing, and it is getting HOT. We’ve already had several 80-degree days, and it’s only going to get hotter. So, how do dogs handle the heat, and what can we do to help them? Let’s find out! 

Each dog is different in how it handles the heat, but there are some common reasons for a dog to overheheat:

• Poor ventilation: if they’re stuck somewhere without airflow, such as a hot car without air conditioning, they can quickly overheat

• Lack of access to fresh water

• Breed: Short-nosed dogs like pugs, bulldogs, or boxers can’t pant as well, so they can’t cool down efficiently

• Coat: A double-coated dog, like a golden retriever, is more likely to overheat than a short-coated dog, like a lab 

• Medications: just like SSRIs can increase the risk of heatstroke in humans, if a dog is on a certain medication like a diuretic or a beta blocker, it can increase their risk of overheating

A dog cools itself through panting, and they only sweat through their paw pads. Neither of these is very efficient, so the heat can cause some serious damage. Dogs have a higher body temperature than humans, too, which puts them at a higher risk of overheating. Their body temp runs anywhere from 100.5 degrees and 102.5 degrees. When their temperature reaches 106 degrees, they experience heatstroke. If they don’t cool down quickly, they run the risk of dying. That’s only an increase of four degrees, and it can cause so much damage. It’s not just the heat either, the humidity can hurt them too. High humidity makes it harder for them to pant, making it harder to cool themselves.

What exactly is heat stroke, though? Heatstroke is when the internal temperature of the dog gets too high. Heatstroke is life-threatening. If they make it through, they can have lasting damage. It’s important to know what signs to look out for to prevent heatstroke! 

Watch their panting. If your dog is panting heavily and they are breathing super quickly, they need to cool down immediately. They also drool excessively, their nose will dry up, and their heart rate increases. Some dogs may experience a lack of balance, almost like they’re drunk. As they continue to be exposed to the heat, their condition worsens, and they go into shock; dehydration becomes more severe, their heartbeat becomes irregular, and they may become lethargic. As soon as you see symptoms, stop whatever activity you’re doing and get them cooled down! Get the animal to a well-ventilated and cool area, spray them with tepid water (not cold! Dramatically decreasing their body temperature can also cause damage, so it needs to be a gradual process), and use a fan to blow cool air on them. If you have a rectal thermometer, take their temperature. Try to get it down to about 103 degrees and then get them to the vet ASAP! If the temperature isn’t going down at all, this is an emergency, and they need to be seen by a professional immediately. 

Asphalt is also a danger in the summer. I have to cross the parking lot of my apartment to get to the grassy area when I take my dog out, and I always run across to get to the grass as quickly as possible. The asphalt heats up quickly, and it gets hot. According to Climate Central, when the air is 77 degrees, asphalt surfaces can reach up to 125 degrees if it’s in direct sunlight. This is hot enough to burn human skin, and it’s going to hurt your dog’s poor paw pads. The general rule is that if it’s too hot for the back of your hand or your bare feet, it’s too hot for your dog. Try to walk them in the early morning or late evening if you have to cross asphalt. Otherwise, stick to the grass and shaded areas. 

Prevention is the best way to avoid heatstroke. Now, I know some people enjoy the heat because they’re secretly lizards, but dogs don’t have the same options as us to cool down. And when I say hot, I mean anything above 80 degrees. Anything between 80-90 degrees is dangerous for dogs. Above 90? Forget about it. In 80+ degree weather, they should only really be outside to use the bathroom. Keep their walks short and stick to grassy, shady areas. If they have to be outside longer for whatever reason, make sure they have access to cool water, shade, and ideally a fan. You can also get them a little pool for a fun way to cool down!

At Francis Kennels, we very closely monitor the temperature for the safety of all our guests. For daycare, I always make sure they have water, and I shorten their playtime. I’d rather they get more rounds at shorter times than keep them outside longer. I do 15-minute rounds max and keep an eye on how everyone is acting. If it’s my rough group, I shorten the time because all that playing is going to increase their heart rate and lead to overheating even faster. My calm group may stay out a little longer because they mostly just sleep in the shade. Regardless of their energy levels, I let the dogs decide when they’re done. I don’t do any longer than 15 minutes, but if the dog is sitting by the gate ready to go in, I’m not going to force them to stay outside just because they haven’t been out the whole 15 minutes. I do multiple water checks throughout the day to ensure they always have access to water. For our boarding guests, we leash walk them so they can still get some sunshine and use the restroom. We have lots of fans, so if anybody is acting a little funny, we can get them cooled down quickly. 

I’m not trying to scare you with this post. Being informed is the best way to keep your animal safe. Ohio weather can be super unpredictable, so it’s important to know what physical signs to look for and how to help if things get too hot. Knowledge is power, so always do your research and speak with your vet about how to best care for your pet in this summer heat! 

Anxious Animals

Emilee Brewer

Have you ever noticed your dog gets super nervous around new people or new dogs? Do they get destructive when you’re out of their eyesight? Just like people, dogs can suffer from anxiety! While small amounts of anxiety is totally normal, if their anxiety levels remain disproportionately high, it can cause behavioral issues and even negatively affect their health. 

What causes anxiety? It can be several things, but according to Merck Veterinary Manual, the most common causes of anxiety are fear, separation, and aging.

Fear-related anxiety is from external stimuli such as loud noises, new people and animals, or new environments like the vet’s office or even their first day of daycare. Typically, a dog realizes there’s nothing to fear pretty quickly, but if a dog has anxiety, it’s going to affect the animal more. 

From the AKC, around 14% of dogs suffer from separation anxiety. This form of anxiety occurs when the animal is unable to comfort themselves when they’re left alone or separated from their family. When my dog goes to the vet, I have to walk him to the back for his exam, or else he will rag-doll, and the vet techs have to drag him. He hates being away from me. With separation anxiety, you often see undesirable behaviors like destroying furniture, excessive barking, or even urinating or defecating in the house. 

Age-related anxiety is exactly as the name implies: the dog becomes anxious as it gets older. This usually happens when the animal is in cognitive decline. They may experience memory loss, lose their sense of perception, and become less aware of their surroundings as a whole. They could also be going blind or deaf, and they’re scared of such a major change. This leads to confusion and fear in senior dogs.

Each individual animal is going to display anxiety symptoms differently, but there are warning signs you can watch for. A frightened dog or even a cat will use body language to show their fear. From VCA, “they may pace, fidget, freeze, or attempt to hide or flee. Subtle communications exhibited by fearful dogs and cats may include avoiding eye contact, looking away, lowering their head or body, tucking their tail, pinning back their ears, licking their lips, and yawning”. Sometimes, a scared animal will react with aggression; they’re attempting to create distance between themselves and the threat. Anxiety also manifests itself in more subtle ways that we may not be able to perceive like an increased heart rate, excessive panting, dilated pupils,  and releasing secretions from the anal sacs. You ever randomly smelled something fishy? Well, it’s from your dog’s ass and they’re probably scared (there are other reasons your dog may be secreting gnarly smells from their butt, so check in with your vet to be safe!). 

Excessive fear can cause a lot of problems for your pooch. It can lead to chronic stress, which takes a toll on their heart. It can also cause aggression. If your dog is suddenly lashing out, they may just be scared. However, there is a difference between anxiety and a general phobia. According to VCA, “a phobia is a persistent, exaggerated fear response that may be so extreme it is debilitating,” whereas anxiety is an emotion that is triggered by the anticipation of a fear-inducing stimulus. So a phobia could be a loud noise or riding in the car, while anxiety may be situation-based, like being at the vet, or it could be generalized and manifest in any situation. Phobia and anxiety-based behavior present the same physiological symptoms, but anxiety can appear even when the trigger isn’t present. As always, if your dog suddenly becomes fearful, take them to a professional to assess them and their emotional well-being. 

You can try to prevent anxiety through early socialization. Any socialization should be done slowly and in a safe environment so it doesn’t evoke fear. Exposure therapy helps them realize new situations aren’t so scary after all. Pair the stimuli with a treat so they associate it with something good. If they become overwhelmed, remove the animal from the situation and allow them to calm down before trying again. If they remain amped up after being removed, do not expose them and consult with a professional. 

If exposure therapy isn’t helping and their reaction to the trigger is disproportionate, they may need a combination of behavioral modification and medication. Avoid their triggers until you’re able to control the environment better and introduce them to low-level triggers. This will help desensitize them. Make sure you always remain calm to help them through the fear. There are natural remedies to dealing with fears, like CBD oil, or there is anti-anxiety medication available, like trazodone. 

Just like people, dogs will experience fear and anxiety at some point in their lives. It’s our responsibility as their parents to make sure they are well taken care of during their triggers, and we do everything we can to ease their fear. If your pooch is experiencing high levels of fear, consult your vet to see what they recommend. Stick to a routine as much as you can, and have a plan in place if they unexpectedly face a trigger. 

Why Is My Dog So Weird?

Emilee Brewer

Dogs are weird. We love them dearly, but sometimes they do some strange things, and all we can do is laugh at them. My dog gets the zoomies after a bath. He runs around like crazy and rubs his body all over my couch. He’s a little freak, and I love him. Let’s look at some common quirks and dig into the possible whys! 

Has your dog ever nibbled on you? Not biting, but literally just a little nibble. They take their front teeth and just kind of nip. It’s almost like they’re eating corn on the cob. One of my daycare dogs does it to me all the time, but why? Most likely, it’s a grooming behavior! Groups of dogs will groom each other, and it’s a bonding moment. They use their front teeth to “comb” through the hair for any fleas or ticks. Your dog is basically sharing their skincare routine with you! It’s a sign they love you. 

What about chasing their tail? My family dog twists herself into a pretzel trying to catch her tail, and she’s successful about 90% of the time. According to the AKC, dogs chase their tails for many reasons. One such reason is they’re bored and want attention. Chasing their tail is an easy way to get their energy out and entertain themselves. If you want to deter this behavior, take them on longer walks, or you could even get them a treat puzzle. 

Okay, so you take your pup on that longer walk, and now they’re eating grass every few feet. There’s no way grass can taste good, so what’s the deal? Well, no one really knows. There haven’t been very many studies on grass eating, but there are some theories. Some scientists say it’s leftover instincts from their wolf ancestors. Wolves have been observed eating grass, so maybe our canine pals just have an urge to satiate. Maybe your pooch is hungry. If they haven’t had a meal in a while, they may eat grass as a little appetizer! No one really knows why they do it, but it doesn’t hurt them, so no harm, no foul.

After eating grass, and grooming you, and chasing their tail, they’re now rolling in something dead. What the hell?! So there are a few reasons for this particularly nasty behavior. One reason is to mask their scent. In the wild, predators and prey alike need to conceal their presence. A dog can’t find a rabbit if it smells like a pile of poop. Conversely, a rabbit won’t detect a dog if it smells like a squirrel. Rolling in gnarly smells is a quick and efficient way to mask your scent. It’s also a pack behavior. Coming back to the pack smelling of something dead lets the others know about potential food sources or even danger. While domestic dogs usually don’t have a pack, they do have a human, and that’s just as good! They want you to know there’s something super interesting in your yard. 

After their bath, you’re soothing your dog with some words of affirmation, and they start tilting their head. Can you hear me better at a 45-degree angle, little fella? Kind of! Humans can more easily determine what direction a sound is coming from, but dogs don’t necessarily have that skill. Their hearing is also muffled because of their adorable floppy ears. Tilting their head in multiple directions enables them to hear sounds from all over and optimize sound detection. Different breeds also have different learning curves with sound detection. A dog with ears that stand up is going to struggle with hearing from the rear only, but a dog with long floppy ears is going to struggle to hear from all directions. Head tilting levels the playing field. Another adorable fact, according to VCA, they also tilt their heads to show interest in the conversation in the same way a human may nod to show active listening! Your pup wants the conversation to continue! 

There’s a whole bunch of other behaviors that are so absurd, we have to laugh. Most of the time it’s innocent playful behavior, but always do some research if your dog starts doing weird things out of the blue. If you’re concerned about a new behavior, consult your vet! What quirks does your dog have? 

FIV: Feline Immunodeficiency Virus

Emilee Brewer

FIV is the feline immunodeficiency virus, the cat version of HIV. Unfortunately, it is one of the most common infectious diseases of cats worldwide. Just like HIV does in humans, FIV attacks the immune system, which opens the cat up to predatory diseases like cancer. Even a cold could be harmful to a cat infected with FIV. 

FIV is primarily spread through a bite from another infected cat. Studies have shown that sharing water and food bowls or community grooming is not an efficient way to spread the disease, so if you have multiple cats who don’t fight, the risk of transmission is low! Studies have even shown that, unlike HIV, sexual contact is also not an efficient means of transmitting FIV. However, there is a risk of transmission from the mama cat to her kittens if she contracts FIV while pregnant. 

FIV-infected cats are all over the world. According to Cornell, in North America, approximately 2.5%-5% of healthy cats get infected. The group with the highest risk of contracting FIV is unaltered, outdoor male cats. These guys tend to be more aggressive than their fixed indoor counterparts, so they’re more likely to get in a fight and contract FIV. The best prevention is to make sure your cat is fixed and kept indoors or monitor their outside time so there’s no risk of them joining their local fight club. 

So what signs should you be watching for? Well, there are three phases of infection - the acute phase, the asymptomatic or latent phase, and the progressive phase. The acute phase is within the first 1-3 months of infection. This is when the infection spreads through the body. It starts in the lymph nodes, where it reproduces in white blood cells and spreads to other lymph nodes. The lymph nodes then become enlarged and are accompanied by a lack of appetite, depression, and fever. This stage is usually missed because the owner attributes the ailments to another condition. 

After the acute stage is the latent stage. The cat does not show any other signs of sickness during this time. Blood tests may show low white blood cell count or increased blood protein, but that’s about it. During this stage, the virus replicates slowly in the cells of the immune system. Some cats are lucky and remain in this stage and never progress to the more severe stage.

The final stage is the progressive stage, and this is the most dangerous. This is when secondary infections occur. The virus itself doesn’t necessarily harm the cat, it’s the fact that the immune system has been so thoroughly damaged that a secondary infection can cause a lot of problems. What should be a simple cough can very easily turn into pneumonia. The cat may develop chronic infections of the skin, eyes, gums, urinary tract, or upper respiratory tract. FIV-positive cats are much more likely to develop cancer and blood disorders as well. They may experience weight loss, seizures, behavioral changes, and even have neurological issues. While the severity of the illness differs from cat to cat, once the animal becomes ill with multiple critical infections, the survival time is usually only a few months.  

When you get a new cat, it’s important to get them tested immediately for FIV so you can protect them and other kitties. When the cat gets infected, its body produces antibodies to help fight the disease, and these antibodies will persist through the cat’s life. Blood tests are run to check for these antibodies and, depending on the test, can be done right in the vet’s office. Now, there is a possibility of a false negative. The body doesn’t start producing enough antibodies to be detected until the virus has been present for about 2-6 months. It’s recommended that the cat be retested in 60 days if there is a risk of exposure, just to be sure the cat is truly negative for FIV. The only other time a false negative is possible is when the cat is in the progressive stage and the body has stopped producing antibodies because it’s become so weakened from the virus. Conversely, there is a chance of a false positive. If a momma cat is infected, she can transfer the antibodies to the kittens when they’re born. The chance of the virus fully developing is low, so you want to get the kittens retested after 60 days to ensure they are actually negative. 

Unfortunately, much like HIV, there is no cure for FIV. There aren’t even vaccines. There used to be a vaccine for FIV, but it proved to have limited effectiveness and was subsequently stopped in 2016. Treatment for FIV is limited. Generally, it’s recommended to keep a positive-cat indoors to prevent the risk of them contracting other infectious diseases. Additionally, give them nutritious, healthy food and avoid raw foods that could potentially have pathogens. Finally, regular check-ups are a must! FIV-positive cats more easily contract other harmful diseases, so catching early warning signs can help prevent diseases from compounding and shortening your furry friend’s life. 

Receiving a diagnosis for FIV can feel devastating, but there is good news! Studies how shown that cats with FIV can live long, happy lives and often have the same lifespan as their FIV-negative counterparts. Humane euthanasia is not typically needed unless the cat is in the progressive stage and the prognosis is less than favorable. This is typically when the cat has experienced multiple severe illnesses or a persistent fever and weight loss. Always consider the animal’s quality of life! You also don’t need to worry about contracting the virus from your cat. Although FIV is similar to HIV, it is species-specific, so there is no risk of transmission to yourself or other humans. 

FIV-positive cats are still worthy of love and companionship. They can live long lives full of snuggles and making biscuits!

From Terriers to Toys and Everything In Between

Emilee Brewer

Last time, we touched on the sporting, hound, and working dog groups. Next up are the terrier, toy, non-sporting, herding, and miscellaneous groups. Buckle up for another informative look into the different breeds! 

Starting off, we’ve got the terrier group. The terriers were bred for hunting, killing vermin, and guarding homes. These guys are feisty and stubborn. Their sizes are all over the place, with some of them being fairly small, like the Cairn Terrier, and others being larger, such as the American Staffordshire Terrier. Terriers are a hard-headed bunch, so be prepared for some pushback during training. Once you get them on your side, though, terriers make excellent pets! 

Next up, the toys. The little guys with big personalities. According to the AKC, toy dogs are affectionate, sociable, and can easily adapt to a wide variety of lifestyles. Dogs in the toy group make excellent apartment dogs since they don’t take up much space and they can easily fit in your lap. The toy breed features a wide range of dogs like the Havanese, Chihuahua, and the Italian Greyhound. The main requirement to fall into this category is weighing 15 pounds or less, with some even being as small as four pounds fully grown!

We touched on the sporting group, and now it’s the non-sporting group's turn! Non-sporting covers a lot of dogs, so it’s hard to pinpoint a distinct look or personality. These dogs are usually excellent watchdogs and house dogs. They don’t require nearly as much exercise as their sports counterparts, so they make for a great walking buddy and even just someone to keep you company. Non-sporting dogs include the charming bulldog, the regal shar pei, and even the ever-loyal Dalmatian. 

The herders, as the name implies, love to herd things. They have an instinctual need to control their environment and round up any and everything in the room (including the kids!). Herders were bred to gather and protect livestock and they are damn good at their jobs. They are very intelligent dogs and take their duties seriously. Often used in police departments, the Belgian Malinois and German Shepherd both fall into the herding group. There’s also the Australian Cattle Dog, Border Collie, and the Bergamasco Sheepdog. 

Last but very much not least, the miscellaneous group! Basically, this group is any breed of dog not recognized by the AKC and that doesn’t quite fit into the other groups. Some really fun breeds fall into this group including the Czechoslovakian Vlcak, the Kai Ken, and the Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka. 

As previously stated, you always want to research the breed before deciding on what to adopt. Consider your lifestyle! Someone who lives a more sedentary lifestyle probably wouldn’t do well with a Malinois, but may have the best life with a basset hound! Conversely, don’t pick a bulldog for your marathoning buddy. And even then, while each breed has expected traits and energy levels, every dog is unique, and they may not meet their “breed standard”. Research and meet and meet-and-greets are your best friends when picking your canine companion. 

Sporting, Hounds, and Working Groups! Oh My!

Emilee Brewer

Humans have bred dogs for thousands of years. We’ve bred them for a number of reasons like hunting, guarding, and herding. Humans carefully selected specific traits and characteristics best suited for the task at hand. According to the AKC, there are several different groups a dog can belong to: sporting, hound, working, terrier, toy, non-sporting, herding, and even a miscellaneous group. Today we will look at the sporting, hound, and working groups. 

Sporting dogs are active and alert. They were first bred to work alongside hunters to help locate and retrieve game. In the sporting group are spaniels, pointers, retrievers, and setters. These breeds enjoy hunting and have excellent instincts in the woods and water. Most of them even have water-repellant coats! These sporty dogs do require a lot of regular exercise so be prepared for lots of moving and grooving if you adopt one of these pups. 

 The next grouping of dogs is the hounds. Much like their sporting counterparts, these guys were also used for hunting. They have an acute sense of smell to help them follow an animal’s trail. Hounds encompass quite a large number of different dogs. From coonhounds to beagles to borzoi, this is one of the largest groups of breeds. They’re quite diverse! As a warning, listen to these dogs howl before deciding to adopt one. They’re a majestic lot, but they make a lot of noise and will back-talk you. Be ready to have a mouthy toddler if you get a hound! 

Finally, working dogs. These guys are some smart cookies. They’re alert and watchful and certainly strong-willed. Working dogs perform several tasks like guarding property, rescue missions, pulling sleds, being little menaces. I’m kidding, but they can get incredibly destructive and grumpy if they aren’t given a task to perform. These dogs typically require a lot more attention and responsibility, so they may not be the best choice for first-time dog owners. Falling in this category are the Bernese mountain dog, Siberian husky, Alaskan malamute, and even the great dane. 

When choosing a dog, it’s important to do some research on the breed beforehand. All these dogs plus the ones we’ll go over next week have their own unique needs. And even still, just because a dog is a hound or a working dog, doesn’t mean they’re going to perfectly match that “breed standard”. Great Danes may fall under the working dog class, but I know some incredibly lazy Danes. They don’t need a job and quite frankly, they don’t want one. Each dog is special in their needs and wants, so it’s also important to do a meet and greet or even fostering before officially bringing them home!

Dog Tolerances

Emilee Brewer

Some dogs love all dogs, some like a few, and others still only like themselves. Just like people, dogs have their preferences! There are three types of dogs: dog avoidant, dog selective, and dog tolerant. A puppy could be dog tolerant, but as they grow older they become more avoidant. But what do these three classifications mean and how do you determine what your dog is feeling? Let’s find out!

Dog tolerant means the dog is fairly social. They like other dogs or at minimum, they’re indifferent to them. Most puppies start as dog-tolerant. Different environmental factors and genetics can change their disposition as they get older. Socializing your dog is an excellent way to make sure they stay dog tolerant but just know that it may not always be enough. When socializing an animal, there’s always a chance something could go wrong which leads to them becoming dog selective.

Dog selective simply means they like some dogs and not others. When making my daycare groups, I’m always careful of who I put together. I’ve been in this position long enough to know each dog’s disposition pretty well. I know who likes who and who hates who. But we do occasionally get new dogs in that I know nothing about and I have to be very careful who I put them with. It’s always helpful when the parents fill out the little questionnaire explaining how their dog behaves with others, but sometimes they may not have the full picture.

Your dog may get along great with the neighbor's dog, but they also see them every day. This is an entirely new environment with new people and new dogs, and there’s no guarantee everyone will get along. The questionnaire gives me a basic idea of their behavior so I can better gauge who they’ll do well with. I also have dogs that I default to when I’m unsure. There’s a great dog that’s one of our regulars who I go to when I need to gauge a new pup. She’s calm but can also be playful, so she gives me a great meter on how the new guy is going to be.

Dog avoidant or dog reactive means they do not like other dogs. This could be from poor socialization, genetics, or their environment, could be they simply love the one-on-one attention and don’t want to share their person! It’s not necessarily a bad thing if they’re dog-avoidant. Proper training can help ease any anxiety or fear the dog may be feeling around others. But what’s nice about Francis Kennels is that we still take in dog-avoidant pups for daycare. They still get the enrichment and outdoor time of daycare but in a dog-free environment!

Understanding your pup's emotional state will help you determine how they’re feeling around other dogs. Some signs of distress to look out for is yawning, excessive panting, whale eye, and growling. They’ll also hold their mouth closed really tightly. These signs can help you decide when it’s time to take your dog out of the situation. Conversely, if your dog is having fun, watch out for a relaxed body. Tail will be wagging, their body can wiggle waggle too from happiness. When they’re happy, their mouth will be held gently and have a soft c-shape to it. Knowing the differences between these behaviors will help you determine if your dog is having fun with other dogs or about to freak out. Always closely monitor playtime so nothing bad happens!

So there it is. Is your dog avoidant, tolerant, or social? No one attitude is better than the other, and here at Francis Kennels, we can accommodate all three!

Is Daycare Right for Me?

Emilee Brewer

While doggie daycare can offer many benefits, it can also have drawbacks, and I want you to be well-informed before bringing your pup. Not every dog will thrive in a daycare situation, so let’s discuss the pros and cons! 

One of the main reasons people bring their pooch to daycare is for socialization. My dog is reactive to other dogs (and sometimes people) and honestly, it’s a little embarrassing when he’s losing his mind and the other dog is just cool as a cucumber. Socializing them is important so they don’t freak out in new environments and meeting other animals or people. Socialization can increase their confidence and help them learn to navigate new experiences. Poorly socialized dogs can develop behavioral issues like anxiety or even aggression. Daycare provides a safe environment for them to experience new dogs and people and how to handle them. 

Another reason people bring their dogs to daycare is for mental stimulation. I have a lazy dog. He curls up in a little circle on the couch and does not move until he needs the bathroom. This may work for my couch potato dog, but other dogs need that stimulation or they can become destructive. Nobody wants to come home to a couch ripped to shreds, so daycare is an excellent way for them to get that excess energy out. They get to run around and play with friends and destroy the facility’s toys instead of your furniture. It’s a win-win! 

Additionally, daycare can provide a much-needed break from your animal. Who hasn’t gotten overwhelmed by their dog? Especially if you have a high-energy puppy or a working dog. Similar to a human child, dogs depend on us for their survival and sometimes it can be a lot! Dropping them off at daycare gives you a few hours of peace and quiet while they’re safe and having fun. Think of it like sending them to summer camp! They come home exhausted and fulfilled and you get a little reprieve from their energy. 

Now, there are many other benefits to daycare, but at the risk of this post getting too long, let’s touch on a few cons to give more of a full picture. One drawback is that daycare can be overwhelming. If a dog is used to being alone, suddenly being surrounded by three or four other dogs can be scary. Plus dogs are barking in other groups, there are people they’ve never met before. Think of it like the first day of school. It’s scary being in a new environment with new people and not knowing the routine. Dogs also get overwhelmed and they can act out because of it. 

Daycare also puts dogs at risk of getting sick. While we require certain vaccines, there is still the potential of a bug being spread around. It’s on the owner to make sure their sick pup stays home, but sometimes a dog can be asymptomatic and then they get their friends sick and the dogs around their run get sick and before you know it, everyone is barfing. Again, it’s just like school; one toddler gets sick and then suddenly the whole class is out. 

Finally, much like people, dogs pick up habits from their friends and it may not be the best habits. Say little Spot likes to bark at dogs passing by. Scooter has never done that before but now he’s barking at all the dogs on your walk because his buddy was doing it at daycare. These behaviors can be deterred with regular training, but it’s easier to prevent the habit from developing in the first place. 

So is daycare right for your dog? That entirely depends on the individual dog. If they’re prone to being anxious or getting overly riled up, it may be best to keep them home or take them somewhere that can give them more one-on-one attention. If you have a dog that is bursting with energy, daycare can be a great way for them to get their zoomies out. It all comes down to how your dog acts on their own and around others. You also want to research each daycare facility and take a tour if possible, before making any decisions. How does the staff interact with the animals? How many dogs are in a group and how many people are supervising? Does the facility use proper sanitation techniques to lower the risk of illness? There are lots of factors in choosing a daycare facility so make sure you do lots of research!   

On The Fence

Emilee Brewer

Have you ever noticed your dog gets weirdly angry when there’s a barrier between them and another dog? Whether it be a fence, a window, or a baby gate, they just get absurdly mad they can’t get to that dog (or cat, or squirrel, or person). This is what’s known as barrier aggression or barrier frustration. Basically, a dog is absolutely livid something is stopping them from getting to something they want. Don’t they understand they’re being stopped and should accept their fate? Maybe it’s not that straightforward, so let’s dive into barrier frustration in this week’s post!

Barrier frustration presents itself as lunging, barking, and/or growling while being held back by some kind of barrier. There are multiple triggers for barrier reactivity including other dogs, a cat, squirrels, the mailman. It can be anything that they want, but it’s on the other side of this wall. This doesn’t necessarily mean the dog is aggressive though! I’ve got several daycare dogs that get grumpy when there’s a fence between them and their friends, but are absolute angels once that fence is gone. They’re just mad they can’t get to their friends! However, it’s still important to slowly introduce new dogs to each other if they’re displaying barrier aggression just to be safe.

While barrier frustration can appear to be aggressive, it’s usually from fear, overexcitement, stress, or anxiety. Maybe a car passes by and honks their horn. It can startle your dog, and now they’re at the window barking their head off because they can’t get to the car, and rip its tires to shreds. This would be an example of a fear response that leads to barrier frustration. Maybe they see their best bud taking a walk but can’t get to them because there’s a fence in the way. They’re overly excited and again, appear to be aggressive because there’s a barrier. It can be a number of reasons for barrier aggression, and it’s important to identify why they’re behaving this way. Undue stress can lead to health complications for your dog (panting, pacing, shaking) or cause unwanted behaviors like destroying your furniture to get their energy out.

So let’s talk about how to correct barrier frustration. First, you want to identify what is causing the reaction. For example, if your dog is freaking out because there’s trick-or-treaters at the door, try placing them in another room with calming music that can mask the sound of the doorbell constantly going off. Give them treats every time they don’t react. Determine what your pup’s threshold is. If they’re so hyped up they refuse treats, they’re beyond their threshold and should be removed from the situation to try again later. Keep exposure sessions short so as not to overwhelm them!

Barrier frustration is honestly one of the funnier phenomena to me. Dogs get so incredibly bothered because they’re being stopped from eating that squirrel. I’ve got a sibling pair that comes for daycare that will be perfect in the yard together, but as soon as there’s a fence between them, they start fighting. That’s your brother! Why are you fighting him because suddenly there’s a fence between you?! Regardless, you always want to be careful when a dog is showing frustration. It doesn’t necessarily mean they’re going to become aggressive, but they’re getting pretty peeved off, and then everyone is having a bad day because the dog is being a sourpuss. Just remember, don’t overexpose your pooch to their trigger and give them lots of treats for demonstrating behaviors you want to see!

Valuable Vaccines

Emilee Brewer

Vaccines are vital tools for combating diseases in humans, and it’s no different for dogs! Always consult your vet for what vaccines are recommended, as there are “core” and “noncore” vaccines. Here at Francis Kennels, we require your pet to be current on three vaccines: bordetella, rabies, and distemper. Let’s dive into how vaccines work and what exactly we’re protecting against! 

Vaccines work by imitating an infection and engaging the body’s natural defense system. There are three ways the antigen is introduced into the body. One way is with a weakened or dead bacteria or virus. The second way is by the form of a bacterial toxin that has been treated to make it nontoxic, and the third way is made up of genetic materials of the virus or bacteria. Antibodies identify and neutralize foreign substances in the body, such as a virus, and the white blood cells then begin attacking it. White blood cells multiply until the threat is taken care of and then they slowly decrease their numbers until only a few are left to keep watch over everything. While you can still get infected after getting a vaccination, vaccines help to greatly reduce symptoms and significantly lower chances of death. 

Bordetella bronchiseptica is one of the bacteria that can cause kennel cough which is just a catch-all term for an upper respiratory infection. This infection causes horrible coughing fits, runny nose, trouble breathing, and lethargy. When the animal coughs or sneezes, little infected droplets shoot out and land on other animals or surfaces. This bacteria can survive on surfaces for hours, days, or months. Because it gets transmitted so easily and lives so long on surfaces, it’s incredibly difficult to get rid of. The Bordetella vaccine is huge if you board your dog, and take them to dog parks or daycare. Being in such close proximity to other pooches makes kennel cough a super spreader. Proper hygiene and sanitization are key when dealing with kennel cough, but even better is to get a vaccine to help prevent it in the first place!

The next vaccine we require is rabies. Rabies is a terrifying disease and can be transmitted to humans. Once symptoms appear, it is 100% fatal, so getting the vaccine is extremely important. Rabies is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system. The rabies virus presents itself in an animal’s saliva, so it’s typically spread through a bite, but can also be spread through scratches. According to WHO, the incubation period for rabies is usually 2-3 months, but it also depends on varying factors such as the location of virus entry and the viral load. Rabies begins with fever, difficulty swallowing, excessive drooling, wobbly gait, and seizures. One of the most well-known symptoms of rabies is foaming at the mouth, but it may not always present itself as “foaming” and could just be lots of drool. As the disease progresses, paralysis sets in and the animal begins losing control of their muscles. This makes swallowing difficult and eventually breathing becomes impossible. Rabies cannot be diagnosed through bloodwork. The only 100% accurate testing is through a brain biopsy. If it’s suspected that your dog has been exposed to rabies, they can get boosters to lessen the chance they contract the virus. However, if symptoms appear, the most humane thing to do is have your dog euthanized. Getting the vaccine and subsequent boosters will help prevent this horrible disease and allow your pet to live a long, healthy life. 

The final vaccine needed is distemper. Distemper is a contagious disease that attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems of dogs. The virus attacks the cells of the immune system, which then puts the dog at risk of contracting other, more dangerous diseases. Starting with the respiratory and gastrointestinal systems, dogs may experience discharge from the eyes and nose, lethargy, coughing, fever, vomiting, or diarrhea. Then the virus goes after the nervous systems and dogs begin displaying neurological signs such as walking in circles, a head tilt, seizures, lack of coordination, and even partial or complete paralysis. Distemper is spread through bodily fluids such as saliva or urine. There is no cure for distemper and very little can be done to ease the symptoms. It’s mostly fluids to maintain hydration if they have diarrhea and vomiting, and medication to help prevent secondary infections. The vaccine for distemper is usually a combo vaccine called DAPP that protects them from various other diseases as well. DAPP is considered a core vaccine and is recommended that all dogs get it. 

Years of research have been done in developing vaccines, and they are extremely important in maintaining your dog's health. They also protect your pup’s friends and keep them safe and healthy too! Contact your vet for any further questions you may have, but let’s all do our part and keep everyone fit as a fiddle!

What's The Scoop on Poop?

Emilee Brewer

Does your dog enjoy a defecation delicacy? Do they like a fecal matter platter? Have a literal sh*t-eating grin? Well, you’re not alone! As disgusting as it is, poop-eating is actually a widespread trait in dogs. The real question, though, is why do they do it? The answer may surprise you.

While coprophagia, or poop eating, hasn’t been studied extensively, there are several theories of why it happens. One possible reason is a nutrient deficiency. Take rabbits for example. Their diet isn’t the easiest to digest, and they lose some important vitamins and minerals. To combat this, they eat their poop to get all the good stuff on the rebound. So are dogs doing the same thing? Maybe. Coprophagia is so common that it’s hard to believe that so many dogs are vitamin deficient. However, some diseases could cause poor absorption of nutrients, so they may be trying to regain those lost chemicals. Additionally, diseases that increase their appetites like diabetes or even thyroid problems, could lead to poop eating. A study showed that greedy eaters and multi-dog households were more inclined to eat their feces.

Another theory for coprophagia is that it is instinctual, leftover memories of their wolfy ancestors. If food was scarce, poop would have leftover fat, protein, or maybe even little bits of undigested food. It’s also a good way to hide your trail from any potential predators.

But the leading theory is that it’s all behavioral. It could be stress, anxiety, boredom, isolation. According to the AKC, “spending too much time confined in a small space can cause a dog to develop a poop-eating problem. It’s not unusual to see coprophagia in dogs rescued from crowded animal shelters”. If your dog is left home alone for long periods, they may eat their poop because they have nothing better to do with their time. It can also be simply to avoid punishment! Who hasn’t gotten mad at their pooch for taking a poop on the floor? If they know they’re going to get in trouble, they’re going to hide the evidence. Always make sure the punishment fits the crime so they don’t feel the need to shame eat.

So should you be worried about poopy mouth? Obviously, you shouldn’t encourage the behavior, but the majority of the time, it won’t lead to any ill effects. However, depending on what the dog eats or what was present in the poop, it can lead to diseases or parasites. Always consult your vet if you’re concerned about your pet's health and especially if they start eating poop out of nowhere!

Regardless of why dogs do it, no one wants to see their cuddly canine chowing down on some crap. Thankfully there are a few ways you can combat this behavior! Consulting with your vet will help you determine any underlying medical conditions that can be easily rectified with new meds, a change in diet, or even vitamin supplements. There are also taste-aversion products available. There are powders you can sprinkle on their food that will consequently make the poop much less appetizing. Just remember, if you have multiple dogs, you need to use the powder for all of them so all their poop is less tasty. Finally, if the poop-eating is behavioral, pinpoint why exactly their doing it. Boredom? Give them some treat puzzles or stimulating toys so they have something more entertaining to do.

As gross as coprophagia is, humans do some gross things too, so don’t be so hard on your pups if you catch them eating a little snack!